Our 43-Day Journey around the Mediterranean:  31 March—11 May 2019

When we began planning this journey, we were focused on visiting some countries in Europe that we had not been to in the past.  During our research, we realized that this part of the world is steeped in a long history, and that became our focus.  From Athens to Aqaba, Paphos to Petra, and in between, we were awed by the resourcefulness and acumen of the ancient peoples who inhabited these lands.
Our dependence on the vagaries of airline routing and scheduling prevented us from going logically from point A to B to C.  However, compared to the dependence on sailing ships of those who preceded us thousands of years ago, we have no complaints.  We were able to see the places we wanted to go quite efficiently by that measure.
As with all travel, we had some pleasant surprises and some disappointments.  We learned a lot about history and even a bit about ourselves and our limits.  With a few exceptions, the people we interacted with were pleasant and kind.  Even in the tension-prone Middle East, we never felt unsafe. Most of the places we visited left us feeling no further need to return.  Greece, Spain and the United Kingdom, however, are calling us to come back.
    •  Days on the Road:  43 
    •  Air Miles:  17,341
    •  Road Miles:  3,064
    •  Foot Miles:  253
    •  Total Miles:  20,658

    •  Countries visited:  8  [UK, Greece, Cyprus, Malta, Spain, Andorra, Jordan, Israel]
    •  Hotels:  21        [ Best:  Barcelona Hilton | Worst:  Akotika Acre ]
    •  Flights:  11
    •  Airlines:  9       [ Best:  Emirates  |  Worst:  Vueling ]
    •  Rental cars:  6
    •  Subway rides:  68     
    •  Highest gas:  $9.56/gallon  (Israel)

    •  Warmest temp:  100°  (Arad, Israel, 5/2)
    •  Coldest temp:  41°   (London, England, 5/9)
    •  Photos taken:  3,136
    •  Letterboxes:  Found 3, Planted 9

    •  Tour buses:  too darn many!
    •  Goats & sheep on the road:  5,635
    •  Camels:  1,844
    •  Free Range Cats:  3,638
    •  Artifacts awaiting reunion:  287,099,583
    •  Street markets:  15
    •  Wildflowers:  95,278,114
    •  Cruise ship groups on land tours:  264
    •  Ancient theaters:  15
    •  Bottles of Water Consumed:  124
    •  Olive Trees:  847,809
    •  Favorite Days:  Drive to Delphi, Greece (4/9) & Train to Cambridge, England (5/9)
    •  Favorite Large Cities:  Athens  |  Barcelona  |  London
    •  Favorite Small Cities:  Galaxidi, Greece  |   Paphos, Cyprus  |  Nafplion, Greece
    •  Best Scenic Drives:  Barcelona to Andorra
    •  Favorite Cemetery:  First Cemetery, Athens
    •  Most Hospitable Locals:  British
    •  Best Historic Sites:  Jarash  |  Petra  |  Acropolis
    •  Favorite Museums:   Acropolis Museum  |  Olympic Torch Museum
    •  Favorite Canal:  Corinth Canal, Greece
    •  Best Military Ceremony:  Guards at Tomb of the Unknown, Athens
    •  Coolest Rock Formations:  Wadi Musa, Jordan
    •  Most Convenient Subway Service:  Barcelona & London  
    •  Cleanest Subway Stations & Cars:  Athens
    •  Most Fabulous Architecture:  Athens  |  Barcelona  |  Cambridge
    •  Best Bridge:  Rio-Antirio Bridge over Gulf of Corinth
    •  Most Brilliant Roadside Idea:  Greek highway relief stations at frequent intervals
    •  Worst Judgment Call:  Thinking we would spend the night in a tent in the desert  
    •  Oops, We Did It Again:  Misjudged the effect of Easter weekend  
    •  Most Deceptive Marketing:  "European Business Class"  (economy by another name)
    •  Ugliest Road Surprise:  Unmarked speed bumps  (Jordan)
    •  Biggest Automobile Excess:  Malta    
    •  Most Excessive Airport Security Screening:  Amman Airport
    •  Most Neglectful of Street Cats:  Cyprus
    •  Rudest Drivers:  Israel
    •  Biggest Disappointments:  Shattering of the Jordanian hospitality myth
    •  Biggest Disappointmenst:  Disappearance of Israeli hospitality
    •  Worst Litter:  Jordan
    •  Biggest Surprise:   Accidentally walking into a funeral at First Cemetery, Athens
    •  Most Unique Architecture:  Maltese balconies
    •  Picnickiest Country:  Jordan
    •  Most Pampered Street Cats:  Athens
    •  Why Hadn't We Heard of This?  European "Business" Class
    •  Most Contrived Tourist Site:  Aphrodite's Rock, Cyprus  
    •  Biggest Turtle Population per Pond:  National Gardens, Athens
    •  Oldest Tree:  1,700-year-old olive tree, Cyprus  
    •  Most Wildflowers:  Cyprus
    •  Most Ornate Church Decor:  St. John's Co-Cathedral, Valletta
    •  Most Motorcycles per Capita:  Barcelona
    •  Most Hitchhikers:  Jordan 
    •  Sorry We Missed:  the Greek islands
31 MARCH 2019—11 MAY 2019

Images from the Trip


Days 39-43:  Israel to London to Home.  If one wanted to devise the perfect antidote to Israeli rudeness, you couldn't do much better than hanging out among the British for a few days.  When we decided to take our leave of Israel early, we just tacked on the extra days to our stop in London.  We were glad we did.  It was so refreshing and restorative to be treated kindly and respectfully.

Rain was in the forecast at least part of the day for most of our time in London, but since we were in a winding down mode on our way home, it suited us perfectly.  In fact, a solid morning of downpour on Wednesday afforded our first opportunity to have our clothes mechanically washed in 40 days.  After six weeks of hand washing, we were giddy over the prospect of putting our laundry in a machine to wash and then transferring it to a tumble dryer, a rarity in Europe, where they're considered energy hogs.  (Yes, we booked a room in a Residence Inn exactly for this amenity.)

In addition to wandering around London, our primary excursion was a train trip to Cambridge, sixty miles north.  We've had the city and its Uni rival Oxford on our list for a while and thought we might visit both.  But the weather dictated differently, and we prioritized Cambridge because we recently learned that our brother-in-law's father, a casualty of World War II, was buried in an American military cemetery there.
Cambridge American Cemetery   (photo from Wikimedia)
Once the United States entered World War II, American forces streamed into Britain.  Over the course of the war, more than 3 million Americans were stationed in the UK at one time or another, fighting and dying alongside their British allies.  In 1943, the University of Cambridge donated a 30-acre plot of land for a temporary cemetery to shelter the remains of United States soldiers who lost their lives in battle.

At the close of the war, the British government authorized the use of this land as a permanent burial ground for Americans whose lives were sacrificed in the war.  Many who had been temporarily interred in other parts of the country were transferred to the Cambridge cemetery before its official dedication in 1956.  In addition to the 3,800 buried there, a 500-ft wall memorializes more than 5,100 additional Americans who were Missing in Action, Lost or Buried at Sea.  Included among these is Joseph P. Kennedy, Jr., brother of the late President, who was lost at sea in his first mission as a bomber pilot.
Wall of the Missing
When we asked Suzie, the visitor center associate on duty, to help us locate the grave of Sgt. Adams, she could not have been kinder.  Extending the warmest sympathy, she located the needed information and asked whether we wanted the grave to be "dressed."  Unsure what that meant, we responded affirmatively since it was clear from her tone that it was a way of honoring our niece and nephew's grandfather.  She excused herself and returned with a silver bucket containing a number of items.
Suzie dressing the grave
As she guided us to the burial spot, eight landscapers who had been mowing and trimming nearby immediately halted their work and extended their respect by standing quietly by.  Suzie gave us the opportunity to take a couple of photos of the marker before she removed a small container of sand from her bucket.  Meant to fill the letters of the engraving so that the name and other information stand out clearly, sand offered a temporary, harmless solution which will wash away in the next rain with no damage to the marble headstone.  Significantly, the sand used by the cemetery for this purpose is brought from Omaha Beach, the section of Normandy Beach where so many Americans lost their lives in the name of freedom.
The effect was remarkable.
After wiping away the excess sand, Suzie planted small American and British flags beside the marker.  The flags had been used to decorate graves in the cemetery during a Memorial Day ceremony.  Having completed her part, she left us there to reflect.  Not until we walked away from the grave and back toward the visitor center did the landscaping team resume their work.  When we returned, we checked out the excellent exhibits in the center and Suzie presented a packet of information and the flags to deliver to Sgt. Adams' 98-year-old widow in Georgia.

Although this was a unique situation with an extraordinarily compassionate person, it was typical of the experiences we had in our four days in and around London.  Not once were we pushed or shoved, even in jam-packed rush hour Tube stations and trains.  Never were we made to feel unwelcome.  In fact, people eagerly engaged with us, even if just driving our taxi or selling us tickets.  And always, people seemed glad to assist if we asked a question.  It was just the reassurance we needed.

By the time we left the cemetery, rain was threatening again, so our visit to the university campus in Cambridge was cut short.  We saw just enough to whet our appetite for more and give the city a priority position on our next visit to the UK, along with Oxford.
The Bridge of Sighs at St. John's College, said to be a favorite spot of Queen Victoria
St. John's College Chapel
Main gate of St. John's College
Front court, King's College
Mathematical Bridge, Queen's College, with a rare geometric trussing technique
Ending our trip in London wasn't exactly intentional.  Though we do enjoy the city, we were just passing through because the cheap tickets we booked were between Atlanta and Heathrow.  Yet it turned out to be the perfect place to end this journey and restore our faith in our fellow humans and in travel.  

Chapter 9 Stats
    •  Started in:  Jerusalem, Israel
    •  Ended in:  Atlanta, USA
    •  Air Miles:  6,566
    •  Rail & road Miles:  214
    •  Foot Miles:   32.42
    •  Weather:  41° to 63°, rain, partly cloudy, cloudy, more rain, sunny
    •  Subway capacity at rush hour:  136%
    •  What we could buy with the cash saved from last trip:  nothing
    •  Colleges at University of Cambridge:  31
    •  Rude people we encountered:  0
Loved:  Being treated as valuable human beings.

Sunny weather and more time to explore.

Learned:  Our visit was a great reminder of how much we enjoy traveling in the United Kingdom.  We will return there soon.
Our habit of taking home extra cash for a head start fell through when new notes were issued.
We had to go to the Bank of England to exchange them for currency with more currency.
These bold starlings tried to steal a snack out of my hand.  Obviously not British. 
Definitely not rush hour at King's Cross station 
Chapel at Cambridge American Cemetery
Eagle pub in Cambridge where researchers announced their discovery of how DNA carries genetic information
We checked out the Canary Wharf area, a financial center where niece Karoline will work next month.


Days 32-38:  Jordan to Israel.  After our extreme security experience in Amman and what we had read (and experienced in our 1979 visit) regarding the infamous thoroughness of Israeli scrutiny of visitors, we approached passport control with dread after landing in Tel Aviv.  It turned out that our concerns were completely unfounded.  The affable Israeli immigration agent was friendly and joked with us about his time spent in Atlanta working for a moving company.  He stamped our immigration cards, returned our passports and sent us on our way.

Incredibly that's all there was to it.  We kept waiting for the other security shoe to drop, but we were unhindered as we went to pick up a rental car and drive away to begin our Israeli road trip.  On our previous visit forty years ago, we had moved around the country using public transportation—mostly a lot of intercity buses.  Since our comfort level with foreign travel has grown and the Israeli road system has been modernized in the intervening years, this time, we opted to drive ourselves.
Since Israel lacks the narrow country lanes common in Europe, we were able to rent a compact SUV.
On our 1979 visit, we hit all the tourist highlights:  Tel Aviv beaches, Masada's ancient fort, the Dead Sea swim, Safed's artist colony, Jerusalem's Old City, Galilee villages of Capernaum and Tiberias, and numerous sites sacred to Judaism, Christianity and Islam.  Though it had been a while, we didn't expect these sites to have changed much, so they did not make the cut for our itinerary.  Instead, we decided to follow the path less traveled, affording us the opportunity to see some new places and avoid the tourist hordes.

Our original plan called for spending nine days in Israel, but we left two days early.  In our seven long days there, we encountered a range of experiences vastly different from our 1979 visit.

The Good

National Parks
In an area about the size of New Jersey, Israel has preserved more than 50 localities as national parks, from historic sites to settings of natural beauty.  Quite a few of these made their way onto our agenda.  In the far north, on he slopes of snow-capped Mount Hermon, we started with Nimrod Fortress National Park.  Built in the early 1200s to defend the road from Damascus to the Mediterranean, the fortress followed the topographical conditions of the area.
Its position along a cliff made Nimrod Fortress almost impregnable.
On a high hill south of the Sea of Galilee, Belvoir National Park protects another impressive ancient stronghold, this one constructed in the 12th century by the Knights Hospitallers (yes, the same order of Crusaders whose history we encountered in Cyprus and Malta).  The building stones and bedrock foundation of the fortress were basalt, an immensely strong volcanic rock, making it the perfect citadel for the final holdout of Crusaders in the area known as the Holy Land.
Belvoir basalt has stood the test of time.
Protected by a 65-ft wide dry moat, Belvoir fortress withstood an 18-month siege in which the opposing Arab army was able to undermine only one tower.  But the prolonged attack had done its job.  Isolated and without supplies, the defending knights surrendered in 1189, restoring Muslims to military power in the area.
Most scrolls were hidden in the cave at the lower left.
Having seen the Dead Sea Scrolls in a Jerusalem museum on our previous visit, this time we wanted to check out the spot where they were found, now protected in Qumrun National Park.  In 1952, a Bedouin shepherd discovered seven scrolls housed in jars in a cave north of the Dead Sea.  Archaeologists subsequently uncovered and reconstructed numerous other ancient manuscripts dating to the 4th century BC in various caves in the area.
Ruins at Avdat National Park
Like other areas we've visited on this trip into the past, the roots of history run deep in Israel.  Avdat National Park preserves the ruins of an ancient Nabatean settlement along the famous Incense Route. The same nation that built their opulent capital at Petra in Jordan constructed a series of way stations, fortresses and towers to offer protection to traders and their caravans on this lucrative trade route.  Avdat was station #62 on this route from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD.
A model on site shows the layout of the ancient city of Beersheba.
Like Avdat, Tel Beersheva National Park is located in the Negev Desert in southern Israel.  Artifacts found at the site indicate that it was occupied as early as 4000 BC.  The city was destroyed and rebuilt many times over the centuries, as layers of ruins attest.  This was the site of the biblical city of Beersheba.
Gravesite of David Ben Gurion and his wife Paula
Though not a national park, another site which we found fascinating was the former desert home of Israel's first prime minister, David Ben Gurion, in the town of Sde Boker.  His gravesite is nearby at the university that bears his name.  Though an important national hero and revered statesman, Ben Gurion stated in his will that, after his death, he wanted his humble two-bedroom home open to the general public, preserved as it was when he lived there.  He stated further, "I ask that during [my] burial ceremony no eulogies will be read and no salvo fired over my grave."

Comparing Israel's size with Georgia
Compact Size
Thanks to its modest size—70 miles wide at its widest point by 200 miles long—Israel is easy to navigate efficiently.  In fact, there are few places that can't be visited in a day trip from Jerusalem in the center of the country.  Driving from the lush agricultural fields of the north to the dry and barren deserts in the south can be done in little more than an hour.  This made it easy to check out a plethora of the country's fascinating archaeological and natural sites in the week we spent there.

Excellent Infrastructure
Based on our experience with narrow, twisting European roads, often with little or no right of way and stone walls built at the edge of the roadway, we typically rent cars much smaller than our vehicles at home.  In Israel, however, roads are more like those found in the North America—modern design, wide lanes, and well maintained.  
Roadside light poles all sported zebra stripes near their bases, making them more noticeable.
Plumbing in Israel, we're happy to report, was also equivalent to Western standards.  Unlike some of the other countries we've visited on this trip (yes, you too, Greece), we saw no restroom signs indicating that toilet paper could not be flushed and should be dropped in the waste can provided.  Nor did we see any squat toilets.

The Bad

The Heat
Yes, we do realize that a large swath of the south of Israel is covered by desert.  And yes, we do remember the oven-baking experience of spending ten July days in Israel in '79.  But we were still caught by surprise when the temperature climbed to 100° on May 2.  With no shade in sight, of course.
The canyon at Makhtesh Ramon
Weekly Easter
We have written often of stumbling upon one Easter holiday after another when traveling, usually involving three to four days of store, museum, and other closures, leaving us a bit adrift in terms of finding meals and activities.

Though Israel is technically not a theocratic state, there is no question that its ultra-Orthodox minority wields disproportionate control over the secular majority, thanks to the vagaries of coalition building in a parliamentary government.  As a result, most restaurants, stores, and other businesses, as well as all public transportation, close a few hours before the beginning of the Jewish sabbath (sunset Friday) and remain closed several hours after the holy day ends at sunset on Saturday.  For visitors who don't know this ahead of time, life can be a bit challenging.
Most tour buses per capita in the world?  We wondered.
Excess Tourism
As a place dear to the hearts of adherents of three major Western religions, Israel attracts almost 4 million tourists annually.  At least a third of these come on large, organized tours, meaning they're moving about the country in packs on tour buses.  All these tourists also have helped to drive up prices at Israeli hotels.  In fact, prices in general tend to be higher in Israel.  We paid the highest price for gasoline on this trip in Israel, an average of $9.56 per gallon.

The Ugly

Security Threats
While we were staying in the south, rockets were launched at Israeli targets from the Gaza Strip, more than 600 over a two-day period.  The morning after the attacks began, we were advised by the owner of the vacation rental where we were staying to take an easterly route on our way north to Jerusalem, rather than driving through the area beset by attacks.  Until Israel and its neighbors are able to reach some accord, these types of incidents are always an imminent possibility.

Gratuitous Disrespect
What really grated the most when we visited Israel was the barrage of rudeness and disrespect we encountered.  We experienced it from hoteliers—repeatedly—, in public places, and especially on the road.  Queue jumping seems to be the national sport as Israelis have no regard for the rights of others who have stood in line before them.  When people blow off scheduled meeting times, they laugh off the fact that you have been waiting and shrug, "It's Israeli time."
Clearly not a place one should speed through
And for some reason, Israeli drivers tend to be aggressive to the point of bullying.  As we neared a police checkpoint with signage clearly indicating we should approach with caution, a truck driver behind us blasted his horn repeatedly to insist that the driver of what was a clearly marked rental car rush past the armed soldiers to save this trucker a few seconds.
Even bus drivers don't hesitate to tailgate.
In the end, the rudeness was like an abrasive sandpaper that wore us down to the point we decided to depart early.  Are we so sensitive that we had our feelings hurt?  No, but the lack of common courtesy and disregard of personal space did get tiresome.  And at the bottom line, we decided we'd rather spend our money somewhere we were treated with respect and didn't have to battle for fair treatment.

When we went Israel in 1979, people were friendly and seemed to appreciate our visiting. Availability of English speakers was fairly widespread, and people would try to help us whether they spoke our language or not.  Forty years later, our experience was quite different. Back then, when we were standing on a street corner looking at a map, locals would stop and ask if we needed help.  Today if we stopped on a sidewalk to consult a map, we'd probably be shoved out of the way.  And now we're told that visitors are being rude if they approach a local and waste his or her time asking for assistance.

Israel, you need not worry.  We certainly won't bother you again.

Chapter 8 Stats
    •  Started in:  Amman, Jordan
    •  Ended in:  Jerusalem, Israel
    •  Air Miles:  70
    •  Road Miles: 888
    •  Foot Miles:  38.56
    •  Weather:  63° to 100°, sunny, hazy, partly cloudy
    •  Beware of Camels roadside signs:  137
    •  Camels:  1,145
    •  Tour buses:  1,794
    •  Stores open on Friday afternoon/Saturday:  5%
    •  Bugs hitting windshield:  37,902
    •  Courteous drivers:  1%

Loved:  That there were plenty of interesting sites to visit away from the tourist hot spots.

Speed limit signs.  Rarely was the speed limit posted, so we were left to just guess.

Learned:  Even though much of our trip has focused on history thousands of years old, we learned that a lot can change in just 40 years.
Airing pillows and linens in the the old town of Acre 
Acre's busy old town market
Haifa's beautiful Ba'hai Gardens
We've seen lots of hooded crows on this trip.  Their call is identical to the ones more familiar in North America. 
Camel riding opportunity at a rest area.  (Note the graphic stop sign.)
Modern tools for date farming
Ein Avdat National Park, a spring in the Negev Desert 
Had a great visit with Ken's college roommate, Jeff, and his wife Diane in Jerusalem.
The perfect metaphor:  an unstaffed Information desk at the main Jerusalem train station.

Best Clock of the Trip
At the Ben Gurion Airport, we saw the coolest digital/video clock ever, sponsored by a local car rental company.  It takes up an entire wall.  Check it out here