A Familiar Ring
GAELIC GETAWAY, CHAPTER 14: IN WHICH RAINDROPS KEEP FALLING ON OUR HEADS
Day 15: Kenmare to Cahersiveen. After a vegetarian version of a full Irish breakfast at the hotel, we drove to a local supermarket and stocked up on supplies. A traditional full Irish breakfast is a meal intended to sustain someone preparing to conduct hard manual labor in a farm field. And perhaps "full" is an understatement.
|A traditional full Irish. Vegetarian versions may add spinach or other vegetables and cheese.|
When we left the Super Valu with our groceries, rain was falling steadily and we debated what to do. Our plan for the day was the scenic Ring of Kerry drive around the Iveragh Peninsula. Since most of the route follows a national road (sufficiently wide and marked), we decided to press on in hopes the rain would mind the forecast and clear up by noon.
|Cloudy day in Sneem|
|Staigue Fort, probably built in the 4th century|
Continuing around the Ring of Kerry, also known as N70, we again wandered off track down a side road to reach Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell, an early 19th century leader in the nonviolent movement for Irish independence and one of Ireland's most famous historical figures. Dublin's main thoroughfare, O'Connell Street, was named in his honor.
|Ogham stone near Derrynane|
|Wind and rain and more wind, more rain|
|Must be a beautiful sight on a clear day|
|Sun getting low over St. Simonds Bay near Ballinskelligs|
A hearty soup and gratin stew in John D's Bar assuaged our appetites and the chill that had nagged us all day. As at so many other Irish hotels we have visited, the bar was busy serving locals who keep the business going during the off season. We learned from the desk clerk that we were only two of three total guests in the hotel's 70 rooms tonight. After we asked what time the heat would come on in our room, a switch was apparently flipped and soon our radiators were giving forth welcome warmth.
After a bit of planning and laundry (which dried quite rapidly on our toasty heaters), we called it a night, eager to rest up for the remainder of the Ring of Kerry tomorrow. We're hoping for better weather but certainly not expecting it.
- Started in Kenmare, ended in Cahirsiveen
- Mileage - 71 (Trip total: 5,707)
- Weather - 53° to 56 °, cloudy, rainy, repeat
- Sunrise - 8:41, Sunset - 4:25
- Walked - 2.1 (Trip total: 38.6)
TUESDAY, 15 DECEMBER, 2015