A City Like No Other
European Adventure, Days 10-12 in VeniceDay 10 - Sunday, October 13
Following the sun's lead, we rose and set out to explore the magical city of Venice, wandering its narrow streets and hoping we'd get lost at least once or twice. Near the top of our list was Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square), the massive public space which is the principal public square of the city and its social, religious and political center.
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| Piazza San Marco |
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| Church of St. Mark |
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| Doge's Palace |
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| Scalia d'Oro |
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| Piazetta |
Just as all the photos and paintings of the city show, Venice is crisscrossed with a network of canals, and there was no mistaking the iconic gondola, among the many other types of boats plying the waters. The gondola stop near St. Mark's Square seemed to be a busy place for gondoliers to pick up a fare.
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| Gondola glory |
On the front of every gondola is a distinctive metal prow blade known as the fero da prora. Its original purpose was to serve as a counterweight to the gondolier standing in the back and keep the flat bottom boat level in the water.
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| Function and form unite |
Not content with such a prosaic explanation, the Venetians wove a legend to create a symbolic meaning for the utilitarian devices. The shape is said to represent the turns of the Grand Canal, while the six fingers stand for the six districts of the city, with the one on the opposite side referencing the island of Guidecca on the far side of the canal. The top is shaped to resemble the official hat worn by the city's doges.
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| Available and handy when needed |
Another signature feature of this unique city is the presence of raised sidewalk planks stacked in the streets. Though they appear superfluous on an ordinary day, these platforms are essential during periods of acqua alta, the exceptional tide peaks that occur in the Adriatic Sea. When the tides crest, Venetian streets become flooded and the elevated sidewalks are put into place so people can still get around without having to wade.
On our second full day in Venice, we began our adventure with a ride on the vaparetto (public water bus) to the St Tomá stop.
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| St Toma |
From the stop, it was a short walk to Campo St. Toma, one of many small squares in Venice, most of which have a cistern, a church and a restaurant or two.
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| Campo St Tomá |
From St. Toma, we ventured over to Campo Dei Frari, home of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Church of St. Mary of the Friars), one of the city's best known churches. Its campanile (bell tower) is the second tallest in Venice after that of San Marco.
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| Campo Dei Frari |
Completed in 1396, the Gothic Frari church has been the burial place of some of the city's most famous residents. As in other churches we have seen, the quire is ornate and imposing.
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| Santa Maria Gloriosa Dei Frari |
Frari, as it is called locally, is one of the city's most compelling churches with a huge interior flanked by a profusion of elaborate monuments, paintings and decorations.
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| Santa Maria Gloriosa Dei Frari |
After visiting the church, we were ready for refreshments and took off in search of a Greek restaurant recommended by someone we met. In the process, we hit a dead end street, not a difficult or unusual feat in Venice.
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| Roma Cassetti |
Finally we located Frary's, the aptly named restaurant near the Frari church. A vegetarian appetizer platter made me happy, while Jeanne and Ken enjoyed a Moroccan chicken with honey and raisins.
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| Frary's |
Time after time after time as we wandered, we walked over small bridges that afforded views such as this one.
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| Another canal |
Unlike the summer season in Venice, the number of tourists shrank when the weekend expired. We saw many more idle gondolas and taxis searching for fares today.
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| Waiting for a fare |
With gondola rides costing more than $100, we opted for the city's vaparetto system, equivalent to a public bus. One can purchase a 7-day unlimited travel pass on this efficient transportation system for half the price of one gondola ride.
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| Vaporetto, our transport of choice |
As we strolled down the narrow streets and explored the squares, we realized that Venice has no shortage of stores offering gifts and souvenirs. Colored glass items are a specialty and the variety of these beautiful baubles is endless.
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| CC Zecchin shop |
Because of the major Venetian emphasis on the celebration of Carneval (known in the U.S. as Mardi Gras) masks are another popular item in city shops.
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| Masks with sparkles |
Venice also has an ample supply of high-end retailers offering luxury goods at prices that could feed a family of four for months, if not years.
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| No shortage of luxury items |
Near St Mark's Square, where tourists and cruise ship passengers congregate, souvenir vendors abound. All seemed to be selling the same 'Made in China' goods, displayed and priced similarly. Yet they sit side by side, all seeking some edge over the competition.
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| Souvenirs anyone? |
In addition to the manufactured goods, booths also host artists selling their original art along the Riva Degli Schiavoni promenade near St Mark's. With reasonable prices for original oil paintings of city scenes, many purchases were underway.
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| Art from the artist |
Located on its own island, the 16th century Benedictine Church of San Giorgio Maggiore is located across the canal from St Mark's Square.
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| Church of San Giorgio Maggiore |
The church interior is very bright with massive columns and the popular pink and white marble floor design seen in other churches.
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| San Giorgio Maggiore La Giudecca |
With assistance from a wheezing, ancient Otis elevator, we climbed the San Giorgio bell tower for one of the best views of the city.
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| Church of San Giorgio Maggiore La Giudecca bell tower |
From the top we watched two massive cruise ships leave the city. Then we could really enjoy the view.
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| View from Campanile di San Giorgio Maggiore La Giudecca |
Back in our Dorsoduro neighborhood, we hit the local grocery store for dinner supplies and discovered that lots of others had the same idea.
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| Supermercato Billa |
When we emerged from the supermarket, we found these two waiting patiently for their masters. We invited them home for dinner with is, but they didn't seem to understand English, so we left them to wait in peace.
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| Waiting... |
As day three in Venice began, we had a hankering to see how the famous Venetian glass was made, so we again hopped on a vaporetto, this time heading to the island of Murano, about an hour's trip from our apartment.
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| Arriving in Murano |
Murano is home to many glass factories, which provide showrooms to sell their beautiful art.
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| Glass showroom, Murano |
At a glass furnace run by one of the 12 Murano master glassmaking families, we watched a demonstration. Afterward we met Marco, a former PR executive turned glassmaking apprentice, who showed us the luxury glass showroom. We saw some exquisite pieces, but photos were not permitted for fear their designs would be poached.
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| Glassmaker at Gino Mazzuccato |
Like Venice, the island of Murano is divided by many side canals, which provide intra-island and inter-island transportation links.
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| Murano canal |
Thanks to a tip from Marco we lucked into this simple little neighborhood restaurant on Campo San Bernardo. Good food at great value!
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| Ai Bisatei Osteria |
After lunch we visited Museo del Vetro, Italy's only glass museum. Housed in the former palazzo of a high-ranking church official, the museum traces the history of Murano glassmaking from Roman times to the present. Almost every piece in the museum collection was donated by Murano glassmakers.
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| Museo del Vetro Murano |
From the museum we walked over to Murano's greatest architectural treasure, the 12th century basilica Santa Maria e Donato built in Veneto-Byzantine style.
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| Santa Maria E Donato |
The basilica floor is covered with marble mosaics dating back to the year 1140. The designs incorporate geometric figures as well as plant and animal motifs.
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| Santa Maria E Donato |
Along the canals in Murano, we saw dozens of boats tied up by the fondamenta (walkway adjacent to a canal). Each had its own little pier of sorts.
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| Fondamenta Andrea Navagero |
On the vaporetto ride to and from Murano we passed San Michele, an island set aside as a cemetery for Venice. The cemetery was established in 1807 when burials in the city were forbidden by Napoleonic decree.
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| San Michele Cimitario |
Back in Venice, we went to a local post office for some stamps. Entering, we saw about 40 people sitting around waiting but no one in line. With some help from a local we too obtained a number from a small machine. Our number was quickly called because we just needed stamps.
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| Poste Italiane Ufficipostali |
Our last stop of our last day in Venice was the famous Rialto Bridge spanning the Grand Canal. Completed in 1591, the bridge is often pictured as a symbol of Venice.
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| Ponte di Rialto |
Both sides of the bridge are lined with shops. Two rows of shops opening inward divide a set of inner steps from the outer steps on each side. All kinds of souvenirs (most made in China) are snapped up by eager tourists.
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| Ponte di Rialto Shops |
In Venice, house and business addresses consist of the neighborhood name (e.g., Dorsoduro) and the number assigned to that house or business. No tourist maps exist that indicate where the numbers can be found. Only the mail carrier and UPS agent know.
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| Siestere Di Dorsoduro, 804 & 805 |
One last stroll along the Guidecca Canal promenade on our way back to the apartment left us wistful for a few more days in this magical city.
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| Fondamenta Zattare |
Before we arrived at the apartment, we couldn't resist stepping into one more church. Located just down the fondamenta from where we were staying, this church is easily identifiable by a huge rosary hanging above its entrance.
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| No mistaking this is St. Mary of the Rosary |
Santa Maria del Rosario (St. Mary of the Rosary) was built in the early 1700s and is exceptional for its preservation of the original layout and much of its Rococco decorations. A total of 270 pilings were driven into the soil to support the weight of the ornate church facade.
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| Church Of St Mary of the Rosary |
After checking out the Rosary, we continued on our way back to the gate leading to our little home.
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| Siestere Di Dorsoduro, 274 |
Down the garden path we went...
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| Courtyard entrance |
...to our home away from home for one more night. It's one of the few places we've seen grass growing in Venice.
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| Home sweet home in Venice |
Tomorrow morning we'll take an Easyjet flight to Paris, the final destination on this European adventure.
More Photos from Venice
