BOXING IN HEARTLAND, Chapter 11:
IN WHICH ART IMITATES HISTORY
  
Day 11:  Joliet, IL to Elkhart, IN.  Just north of Indiana border, Cass County, Michigan, sprawls across fertile prairie land rife with immense cornfields in the midst of harvest.  An unassuming community of farmers and commuters, Cass County is a place where you can still drive your tractor and grain wagons down the main street of the county seat of Cassopolis (pop. 1,598) and no one will bat an eye.
  
The streets are lined with small businesses and humble homes, many decorated for fall or the upcoming Halloween holiday.  People are friendly and go about their routines with seemingly quiet abandon.
  
But driving along Broadway, the town's main drag, one discovers evidence that things were not always so calm in this quiet hamlet.  Splashed across the side of the downtown building housing Village Floral is a colorful mural depicting a night when local men, armed with clubs, scythes, and other farm implements, united to drive out intruders.
  
Kentucky Raid mural, Cassopolis, MI
Fueled by the passion of early Quaker settlers, Cass County in the early 19th century was a hotbed of abolitionism.  Many of Cass's Quakers had left the South to distance themselves from slavery and, when the opportunity arose, they eagerly provided aid and comfort to escaped slaves along two different routes of the Underground Railroad.
  
Called Sanctuary and Deliverance, the mural was completed in 2010.
In this hospitable environment, an African American community soon developed in Cass County, built by both escaped slaves and free people of color. African American settlers in Cass founded schools and churches, were elected to township offices and served in many non-agrarian professions.  Then one fateful night in August of 1847, an armed band of 13 Kentuckians rode into Cass County bent on capturing former slaves and returning them to Kentucky.  The southerners broke into smaller parties and invaded various settlements, abducting escapees.
  
Cassopolis artist Ruth Andrews designed the mural.
Word of the raid spread quickly, and  a crowd of 200 Cass County residents gathered to stop the Kentuckians.  A confrontation ensued in the village of Vandalia, and only the influence of the peace-loving Quakers prevented the crisis from escalating into violence.  Outnumbered, the raiders gave themselves up and were transported to Cassopolis to stand trial, believing the law was clearly on their side in the form of the Fugitive Slave Act of 1793.
  
Various scenes from the raid are depicted on the mural.
With the Cass County judge out of town, the Quakers brought in an abolitionist magistrate from a neighboring county, who found for the fugitives on a paperwork technicality.  The Kentucky raiders went home empty-handed but incensed and determined to strengthen the federal law on fugitive slaves.  A more stringent Fugitive Slave Law was passed in 1850, increasing the danger for both the freedom seeker and those who abetted their escape.  Authored by Henry Clay, this law became one of the primary vehicles propelling the nation into civil war.
  
Cass Countians today remain very proud of their historical involvement in the Underground Railroad, an effort based on mutual trust and respect among Quakers, free blacks, escaped slaves and other abolitionists.  Local societies have been formed to preserve this heritage with historical markers, driving tours, and such initiatives as the Kentucky Raid mural entitled Sanctuary and Deliverance
   
ROAD NOISE
  
Rock On!  On I-80 near Chicago, we drove over the amazing Thornton Quarry, one of the largest aggregate quarries in the world.  In use since 1924, the quarry is 1.5 miles long, a half mile wide and 400 feet deep.  A bridge carries interstate highway traffic over the mammoth pit.
  
Thornton Quarry (photo by Hanson Engineering)
Life Takes a Toll.  At the Cassopolis post office today, I paid my debt to the Illinois Tollway.  After buying for an envelope, stamp and money order, my $1.00 mistake cost me $2.64, not to mention the recurring nightmares.
  
Barking Out the Wrong Tree.  Why are cedar trees such victims of mistaken identity in the Midwest?  Among letterboxers, anyway.  Unlike in Iowa and Minnesota, where cedars were referred to as pines, in Illinois and Indiana, we have found them at locations where fir trees were said to be.
  
Kitties Thank Cassopolis.  Another claim to fame for Cassopolis, MI:  Ed Lowe, the inventor of cat litter, grew up in Cassopolis.  Before his invention, people kept their cats outside.  After the development and marketing of his Kitty Litter product, the popularity of cats as household pets grew significantly.  Way to go, Ed!  Cat lovers everywhere thank you.  

  
DAILY STAT
DAILYS
DAILY
DAILY STATS
  • Started in: Joliet, IL
  • Ended in:  Elkhart, IN
  • Miles driven: 212          (Trip total:  2,110)
  • States: 3 (IL, MI,IN)
  • Letterboxes found:  6           (Trip total:  65) 
  • Weather: Sunny, 47° to 58°
  • Gas:  $3.399 (Joliet, IL)
  • Tolls paid (IL and IN):  too darn many!
MONDAY, 24 OCTOBER 2011

Historical marker in Vandalia, MI
Cass County Courthouse
Bristol, Indiana
Wrong way driver?     (No just being towed.)

BOXING IN HEARTLAND, Chapter 10:
IN WHICH WE PAY A PRICE FOR CONFUSION 
  
Day 10:  Madison, WI to Joliet, IL.  After a lovely morning and early afternoon letterboxing our way down I-39/I-90 from southern Wisconsin into northern Illinois, we entered the Chicago area and the land of the Illinois Tollway.  There I was driving down an interstate highway, a federally funded highway, minding my own business, when suddenly I see a sign indicating that a tollbooth is ahead.
  
What the heck? A tollbooth on an interstate highway?  Didn't we already pay for this road?  What about all those gasoline taxes we ponied up?  Does Barack Obama know about this?  We need to call our senators.
  
Meanwhile, our faithful Garmin was berating me to "Keep left onto I-90," and I certainly didn't want to traumatize her into recalculating.  Yes, I saw the signs for the toll plaza in the two right lanes.  But since the GPS knew we were going to Joliet and the Tollway signs did not, I stayed to the left, thinking the toll plazas were part of an exit.
  
Who wouldn't be 100% confident sharing credit card information with this web site?
Of course, as soon as we passed through, I realized I had been mistaken.  The tollbooth was for the highway, not part of an exit.  What now?  Not a good idea to back up on an interstate highway, even to pay a stinking toll.  Get off at the next exit and drive north of the tollbooth and return to pay the toll, maybe.  Then wouldn't we need to pay it twice?  Almost immediately we saw a sign that said we could pay unpaid tolls online.  Oh, goody!
  
Pay again??
Geez, this could be so much simpler if Chicago would just do what most of the rest of the country does and stay out of our pockets on the highways we've already paid for once.  As we learned later, of the 47,000 miles of interstate highways in the U.S., only 2,900 miles (about 6%) are toll roads.  And the good old Illinois Tollways (operating only in the Chicago area) is collecting for of 286 of those miles.  Yes, that's almost 10 per cent!
  
Another opportunity to pay!
To add insult to injury, there is one tollbooth after another.  You don't just pay once to use this highway.  No, sir.  Every few miles, you get to pay again... and again... and again.  So at the next toll plaza, we explained what happened, that the GPS was telling us to stay to the left, and asked the not so friendly toll operator if we could pay her the toll that we missed.
  
All these toll booths double the travel time.
Indeed not, we were told.  And the operator put us on notice that we were allowed to make only two mistakes on the tollway.  I was afraid to ask what might happen if we committed a third breach of tollway rules.  Then she generously scribbled out a pay by mail form for us and handed it over with a bit of advice for no extra charge.  "Don't listen to your GPS," she warned.
  
Do not mess with Illinois toll takers.
Is it really legit for Illinois to charge tolls for federally funded highways?  As it turns out, these roads were grandfathered into the federal interstate system in 1956.  The roads were already in existence as toll roads, and the U.S. Bureau of Public Roads could incorporate the toll roads into the interstate system more economically than building toll-free roads through the same corridor.
  
Make no mistake, the Illinois Tollway is serious about collecting tolls and will not tolerate scofflaws who listen to their Garmins.  In fact, later in the evening when we returned to our car in the local Target parking lot, we found a local police car waiting nearby and wondered if he had come to exact payment of our unpaid toll.
  
You looking for me, sir?
Unfortunately, that was not his mission.  We still have to pay 44 cents to mail payment for a $1.00 toll. 
   
  
DAILY STATS
  • Started in: Madison, WI
  • Ended in:  Joliet, IL
  • Miles driven: 203  
  • States: 2 (WI, IL)
  • Letterboxes found: 8 + 1 hh
  • Weather: Sunny, 44° to 66°
  • Radio stations in the area carrying Atlanta game:  0
  • I-90 toll plazas:  15 (in 70 miles)
  • Errors we made on the next tollway:  1 (Whew!)
  
SUNDAY, 23 OCTOBER 2011

Princess Wenonah
BOXING IN HEARTLAND, Chapter 9:
IN WHICH A TRAGIC LOVE STORY UNFOLDS

Day 9:  Rochester, MN to Madison, WI.  Another gorgeous autumn day in the heartland— crisp air, cloudless azure sky, and enough leaf color remaining to contrast with the tawny grasses and cornfields, painting a stunning vista. Near the river, golden limestone bluffs dotted with scrappy cedars overlook the highway. 
  
In search of a couple of letterboxes, we stopped in Winona, MN, a border city of some 30,000, sitting on a sandbar in the Mississippi River Valley. First settled by a band of Dakota in the early 1800s, Winona was ceded by the natives in an 1853 treaty.
  
According to legend, We-No-Nah, a daughter of the Dakota chief, leapt to her death from a bluff when she was not permitted to marry the brave that she loved. This star-crossed lover remains a symbol of the city that bears her name, and her statue graces a local park. The heritage of her people is honored at the annual Great Dakota Homecoming.  
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High above the city, Garvin Heights Park offers a spectacular view of Winona and the surrounding area. The park sits on a bluff which is more than 500 feet high.  The land was donated to the city for an overlook park.  On this Saturday morning, it was busy with visitors.
  
Winona, MN from overlook
In the stadium below, we could see the preparations for Winona State University's homecoming football game today against Concordia-St. Paul.  The Winona Warriors went on to win 58 to 24.
  
On a recommendation from an employee in the local visitors center, we trekked over to the Blue Heron Coffeehouse for lunch.  Opened in 1998, the coffeehouse offers delicious dishes made with organically grown, mostly local ingredients.
  
They are also accommodating to vegetarians and customers who may have food allergies or sensitivities.  The Book Shelf bookstore is next door and shares an open space with the Blue Heron. It was a cozy combination.
  
Lake Winona
Unfortunately, we had to move on and were unable to take advantage of the free canoe and kayak rentals offered by the Winona Parks and Recreation Department on Lake Winona.
  
If the name Winona sounds familiar, you may be thinking of the actress Winona Ryder.  Her parents loved the name of their town so much, they named their daughter after her birthplace.
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DAILY STATS
  • Started in:  Rochester, MN
  • Ended in:  Madison, WI
  • Miles driven: 245
  • States: 2 (MN, WI)
  • Letterboxes found: 2
  • Weather: Sunny, 41° to 61°
  • Gas: $3.429 (Onalaska, WI)
  • Purple-shirted Winona State fans going to homecoming game: 12,784
  • Wisconsin cornfields:  1,562
SATURDAY, 22 OCTOBER 2011

Central United Methodist Church in Winona with its European castle-like bell tower

Rochester State Hospital
BOXING IN THE HEARTLAND, Chapter 8:
IN WHICH WE LEARN A SHOCKING HISTORY 

Day 8:  Rochester, MN.  While posted in Rochester as a military surgeon during the Civil War, Dr. W. W. Mayo grew fond of the city and moved his wife and children here.  After the war, he opened a medical office in Rochester and later both his sons joined their father's practice.
  
W.W. Mayo (from Wikipedia)
After setting up a temporary infirmary to treat injuries from a devastating 1883 tornado, Mayo was convinced to work with the Sisters of Saint Francis, a religious order, to establish a hospital in Rochester.  In 1889, the plan was realized and Saint Marys Hospital began serving patients.  
  
Meanwhile, the medical practice of W.W. Mayo and his sons expanded as they hand-picked a group of talented physicians to establish what would become known as the Mayo Clinic.  Even after the death of the elder Dr. Mayo in 1911, the Mayo practice continued to grow in national stature as a pioneering medical center, particularly in the area of surgery.
Mayo Clinic's Plummer Building
  
The Mayo Clinic was converted from a private practice into a not-for-profit entity in 1919 with the same three-part focus it maintains today:  patient care, research, and education.  Today Mayo Clinic owns and operates more than 70 hospitals and clinics in the Midwest and several medical colleges.  Major Mayo Clinic campuses are located in Jacksonville, FL, and Scottsdale, AZ, in addition to the original in Rochester.  In Rochester alone, Mayo employs more than 30,000.
  
Consistently rated among the top hospitals in the U.S., Mayo Clinic has established an outstanding international reputation for innovative, far-reaching breakthroughs in medical practice.
  
Ten years before the Mayos helped open Saint Marys, another hospital opened in Rochester-- the Second Minnesota Hospital for the Insane, later known as Rochester State Hospital.  This hospital became home to people whose conditions today might be treated in a facility like the Mayo Clinic, if they required hospitalization at all.
  
After the death of her son, Lillian Schuenman endured a nervous breakdown which landed her in Rochester State in the early 1940s.  In an attempt to relieve her depression and calm her anxiety, doctors there performed two lobotomies on her.  Twenty years later, she died, still a patient at the hospital, and was buried in an anonymous grave on the hospital grounds.
  
Other patients were institutionalized for such conditions as alcoholism, Downs Syndrome, or even menopause. Electroshock treatments were common. Between 1886 and 1965, more than 2,000 Rochester State patients were laid to rest in unmarked graves in a cemetery tucked away in the woods.
  
Rochester State Cemetery at Quarry Hill Park
Rochester State Hospital closed its doors in 1965, and the property was purchased by the city of Rochester.  Today, the grounds of this once baneful institution have been transformed into Quarry Hill Park and Nature Center, a haven for recreation and education and a joint effort of the city's parks department and school district.
  
A group of local citizens has organized to honor the memory of hospital residents who were interred at this site and to respectfully identify each with a named headstone.  They strive to help others remember this part of Rochester’s history and learn from the injustices of the past. 
  
One city, two hospitals-- one a source of honor and acclaim, the other a past many want to forget.
  
ROAD NOISE
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Poison in the Produce Aisle.  Last month we saw some Maclura pomifera trees in Tennessee.  What attracted our attention were the bumpy, spherical, baseball-size fruits growing on the tree.  We saw quite a few of these trees while letterboxing in the Nashville area and even found ourselves playing "dodgeball" with the fruit dropping from the trees in the heart of autumn.  Called Osage orange, hedgeapple, hedgeball, and even horseball, the fruit is not edible by humans. Although it is not strongly poisonous, eating it has been known to cause vomiting.  Animals also do not eat this fruit, though squirrels occasionally go after the seeds inside, which are safe.  
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Add some to your potato salad?
Today in Rochester, we saw this inedible fruit in the produce section of a local grocery store.  Both folk legend and research suggest that the hedgeball may be effective as an insect repellent.  In fact, some researchers have claimed that a chemical extractable from the fruit may be as effective as DEET in repelling mosquitoes.

It's a fruit, so you display it in the produce department?  And hope everyone who buys it reads the sign indicating it's not edible?  Or would it be more appropriately shelved with the Off! and Raid?  When's the last time you saw a box of d-CON next to the asparagus?
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DAILY STATS
  • Started in:  Rochester, MN
  • Ended in:  Rochester, MN
  • Miles driven:  47
  • States:  1 (MN)
  • Letterboxes found:  11 (in Quarry Hill Park)
  • Kids at Quarry Hill Park:  346
  • High school volleyball players at our hotel:  172
  
FRIDAY, 21 OCTOBER 2011

Rochester State Hospital Cemetery
Plaque at RSH Cemetery (2019 refers to number of burials, not the year)
Recycling at its best
Peace Plaza, downtown Rochester

BOXING IN THE HEARTLAND, Chapter 7:
IN WHICH WE ARE LOCKED AWAY

Day 7:  Dubuque, IA to Rochester, MN.   We set out this morning to find three letterboxes at Eagle Point Park in Dubuque, expecting to be on the road toward Minnesota no later than mid-morning.  Then we got locked away and didn't leave town until much later.
  
Here's what happened.  We located letterbox number one readily enough but before we could return to our car to drive to another part of the park to search for the other boxes, we were distracted by the sight below the bluff we were on — the mighty Mississippi River and Lock and Dam Number 11!  Officially, it's General Zebulon Pike Lock and Dam #11.
  
Not only was there a barge inside the lock, another sizable tow (three across, four deep) was waiting its turn to lock through.  As much as we love to look for tupperware in the woods, we can do that most any day, anywhere.  An opportunity to view such a feat of engineering doesn't come along so often.
  
Neil N. Diehl tow waits its turn
So we forgot about the other letterboxes we intended to find and took our posts at the observation point in the park high above the lock.  Though the temperature hovered around 40º, the high winds off the river buffeted us and sent the wind chill down to freezing or below.  We couldn't be bothered with the cold.  There was a show to see— even more of one than we anticipated.
  
The tow enters the lock.
We watched with fascination as the towboat pilot guided his tow into the narrow lock.  Lock #11 is 110 feet wide by 600 feet long.  We're guessing these barges were the standard size of 35 feet by 200.  That left a whopping two feet or so of clearance on either side of the tow as it maneuvered into the lock.
  
Tight quarters
Of course,we didn't have all these facts and figures as we were standing on the bluff watching.  Otherwise we would have realized that this would not be a simple lockage.  This tow was what is known as a "double," meaning the tow and barges were too long to lock through as one unit.
  
Too looooonnnngggg
Due to the size of this lock, no more than three rows of barges can fit in the lock.  As we learned by observing, the procedure was for the tow to enter and secure the front barges in the lock and then cut them loose.
  
Backing out
Then the tow backed out of the lock with the aft section of barges attached.  The lock gates closed and the orphaned barges were lowered to the downstream level.
  
Orphans locked in
Since the unlashed barges had no power, a cable winch at the end of the lock had to give them a pull to move the barges out of the lock.  Once the lock gates were closed and the water level rose to upstream level, the tow and aft barges were locked through.
  
Coming through
Then it was time for the tow to reconnect with the forward barges.  As the towboat maintained forward thrust, the crew scurried to mate the two barge sections back together again.
  
Together again
Reunited with all 12 barges, the Neil N. Diehl pushed its load out of the lock and continued downstream.  The entire process took about an hour and a half.  What a show!  And we paid the whopping sum of $1.00 entrance fee for Eagle Point Park.
  
If this sounds boring to you with all the time waiting for the lock level to rise and lower (which really didn't take that long), there was a bit of a side show going on also.  To lend authenticity to the park's name, a bald eagle began flying over the river during the lockage and perched in a tree across the river.  Though we didn't have a camera lens to capture this part of the entertainment, our excellent Nikon 10x36 binoculars enabled us to spy on this majestic raptor and his mate about a half mile away.
  
ROAD NOISE
  
Library-To-Go:  Don't have time to drop by the local library to pick up a book?  The Dubuque Public Library can help.  They have partnered with a local grocery chain to make picking up the latest best seller more convenient than ever with the use of a library vending lending machine.  One swipe of your library card and you can take home the new James Patterson with that gallon of milk.
Pining for Accuracy:  A rose is a rose, but is a pine a pine?  Two days, two states, two letterboxers, and two cedar trees referred to as pines in the clues for letterboxes we were searching for.  We looked behind a dozen or more pines before locating the first one.  The second time, we realized it was one of those cedar pines and went straight to the correct tree.
    US-52, the Amish Byway
Buggy Lane:  After crossing into Minnesota this afternoon, we began to see lots of Amish buggies and businesses around the towns of Prosper and Harmony.  The main highway had extra wide shoulders to accommodate these slower forms of transportation as well as farm vehicles.
DAILY STATS
  • Started in; Dubuque, IA
  • Ended in:  Rochester, MN
  • Miles driven:  207
  • States:  2 (IA, MN)
  • Letterboxes:  5 found
  • Gas:  $3.359 (Luxemburg, IA)
  • Barges:  18
  • Bald eagles:  2
  • Time spent watching boats move 620 feet:  1.5 hours
  • Silos:  372
  • Acres of cornfields:  803,482
  • Corn stalks:  457,230,881,902
  
THURSDAY, 20 OCTOBER 2011

Dubuque County Courthouse
Part of an Iowa soybean harvest

BOXING IN THE HEARTLAND, Chapter 6:
IN WHICH WE FIND THE CREAM OF THE CROP
  
Day 6:  Burlington, IA to Dubuque, IA.  It's impossible to drive through the state of Iowa and not develop an interest in corn.  You're surrounded by it.  And we're not talking about the Republican Presidential candidates' slogans and promises.  Driving along some Iowa roads, all you can see are huge corn fields.  Corn on the right, corn on the left.  Everywhere, corn.
  
With a projected crop of more than two billion bushels this year, Iowa is the top corn-producing state in the U.S. with Illinois second and Nebraska, the cornhusker state, a distant third.  Iowa alone grows more than 17% of the U.S. corn crop.  Iowa grows more corn than most nations.
  
A combine harvesting corn
Ethanol production consumes more than a third of Iowa's corn crop, with the remainder used mostly for feeding livestock and a small portion for human consumption.  Most of the harvesting is taking place this month.  As the large combines go through the fields, they strip the husks off each cob, remove the kernels from the ear, and return the husks and cobs to the field to enrich the soil.
  
Corn has been the dominant crop in Iowa for more than 150 years.  The state has just the right climate and soil to make it the perfect environment for corn production.  Due to improvements in agricultural techniques, Iowa farmers grow twice as much corn as they did 100 years ago.  With modern technology and methods, today's farmers are using only one-third of the acreage of those farmers in the early 1900s.
  
No doubt about it, we're seeing a bumper crop of corn being harvested in Iowa — everywhere we look.
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ROAD NOISE
SPACE  
Luring Them In.  What does today's drive-in theater owner do to bring in customers?  Have a tent night, as the Grand View Drive-In had earlier this month, according to the sign we passed today.
Eat Your Pasta and Call Me in the Morning.  I have met the enemy and its name is pasta.  For the past two days, we had our main meal at lunch time.  Both days we were in smallish cities and the highest rated restaurants we found on Yelp were local Italian places.  On each day, I ate a pasta dish.  And on both days, I spent the afternoon fighting sleep like someone under heavy sedation.  Finally today I discovered that pasta contains a heavy dose of tryptophan, nature's sedating amino acid.  Lesson learned.
The Magic Question.  Ken has come up with a great way to obtain authentic tourist information and meet some locals at the same time.  At a restaurant, on the street, wherever and whenever the opportunity presents itself, he will ask a local resident to recommend the one place in town we should be certain to visit.  It has led to some interesting conversations and some helpful information.
We Visit Dead People.  Though we probably had a mild case of taphophilia before we started letterboxing, we have certainly become more affected.  Today we letterboxed in Aspen Grove Cemetery in Burlington where we learned about some interesting Iowans who are buried there.  A wise tradition we saw there was the practice of employing one large family name monument surrounded by a circle of small headstones for individual family members.  Doesn't that just look so cozy and friendly?
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DAILY STATS
  • Started in: Burlington, IA
  • Ended in: Dubuque, IA
  • Miles driven:  172
  • States:  1 (IA )
  • Letterboxes:  9 found
  • Aspen Grove Cemetery population:  5,542
  • Tombstones featuring dog:  1
WEDNESDAY, 19 OCTOBER 2011
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More corn
Still more corn
Corn as far as the eye can see
Another Burlington church for sale
Aspen Grove Cemetery
A family that dies together lies together.